How to lay Pavers - Paving Contractors Northern Adelaide
How to lay concrete pavers, clay pavers and stone pavers
There are two methods commonly used when it comes to laying pavers, wet lay and dry lay.
The term "Wet lay" refers to the wet concrete/mortar bed used to lay Stone pavers upon. Although thicker stone pavers over 30mm thick can be dry laid, the hardened concrete base of wet laying helps prevent thin Stone pavers cracking when exposed to heavy weight loads.
The process of wet lay paving is quite complex and allows no room for error, would strongly recommend seeking the services of an experienced paviour to carry out the work.
"Dry lay" paving is by far the most commonly used method to lay all concrete pavers, clay pavers and stone pavers over 30mm thick. This method comprises a thick layer of Quarry Rubble, which is moistened and compacted with a 100kg plate compactor to create an extremely hardened base. Not only is this by far the most cost and time efficient way to lay pavers, but it's one that can be tackled by most DIY's.
Below we've included a detailed step by step guide on how to correctly dry lay pavers from the initial excavation through to the finished product.
Designer Paving and Landscaping, Paving Adelaide since 2001
Driveway paving, Perimeter paving and Patio paving.
Site excavation
The importance of excavating the earth to the correct depth cannot be emphasized enough, failure to do so results in insufficient base depth which leads to paver sinkage and movement. Below are the minimum depths required to allow adequate base preparation whilst maintaining the correct paver height.
Driveway Paving
- 175mm. Minimum depth from the top of the carports concrete base to the subgrade.
Pathways and Patio paving
- 190mm. Minimum depth from the properties Damp Proof Course to the subgrade.
- Be sure to include the necessary falls when levelling
- Wet the subgrade and allow the water to seep in, once the surface has dried sufficiently run a plate compactor over the top until hardened.
Stormwater Drainage
Its essential that adequate stormwater drainage grates are installed to prevent the rise of floodwater damaging your property. If installation is required the stormwater pipes will now need to be laid.
- Locate the properties existing stormwater system.
- Work out where the drainage grates are to be installed then mark out where the stormwater pipes are to be laid using marking paint.
- Dig out the trench using a mattock and trenching shovel
- Connect stormwater pipe to the existing stormwater system and place a 400mm high upright length at the drainage end.
- Backfill trench and compact with a plate compactor.
Ensure the correct paver height and base depth
With the excavation and stormwater completed, it can be helpful to place intermittent markers along the foundation indicating the levels needed for the base, bedding sand and paver height.
Driveway Paving
- Paver height = 0-50mm: Paver level with the top of the carports concrete using a 50mm Driveway paver.
- Bedding Sand = 50mm-75mm: 25mm deep layer of quarry sand used to lay the pavers upon.
- Base Layer = 75mm-175mm: 100mm deep layer of compacted quarry rubble.
Perimeter and Patio paving
- Paver height = 75mm-115mm: Paver height at 75mm below the properties Damp Proof Course using a 40mm paver.
- Bedding Sand = 115mm-140mm: 25mm deep layer of quarry sand to lay the pavers upon.
- Base layer = 140mm-190mm: 50mm deep layer of compacted quarry rubble.
Preparing a hardened base to lay the pavers on.
The base is fundamentally important to the ongoing structural and visual quality of the paving and must be carried out correctly.
- Quarry Rubble is used to create a hardened base.
- Driveway paving requires a minimum compacted base depth of 100mm.
- Perimeter and patio paving require a minimum compacted base depth of 50mm.
- If the subgrade is comprised of reactive clay then we would suggest adding a further 20-50mm.
- A fall of 25mm per metre is required to facilitate adequate stormwater run-off on perimeter paths while a fall of around 12mm per metre is used for larger patio areas.
- Use a large spirit level or screed to sculpt and level the Quarry Rubble as best as possible.
- Once the Quarry Rubble has been levelled it will then need to be hardened. Wet down the Quarry rubble thoroughly (but do not soak) and compact the surface using a 100kg plate compactor.
- Repeat this process a further 5 or 6 times wetting the quarry rubble between each run if necessary.
The Bedding Sand layer
In order to create the flat surface needed to bed pavers upon, a 25mm thick layer of quarry sand is added to remove any high or low spots present within in the base.
- Build up the quarry sand and compact it to a level which is slightly higher than needed.
- Place a paver next to the foundation and work it into the sand until its at the correct height (the highest point of the paving) take another paver and work it into the sand to indicate the lowest point of the paving.
- Remove the pavers and place a long spirit level or screed bar between the two flattened points and rock the screed bar back and forth into the sand until a level surface has been etched joining the two markers. Check that there's sufficient fall then place a length/s of 30mm x 3mm flat bar steel "strap" along the flattened surface.
- Repeat this process at a distance which allows the screed bar to reach both straps.
- Applying moderate pressure, lean forward and scrape back the built up sand between the straps with long strokes of the screed bar until the sand is completely levelled.
- After the section has been levelled, repeat the process to the rest of the area.
- After the sand has been levelled, select a soft spray on the hose and wet the sand thoroughly to harden it. Once dried the sand should a hard surface and is ready to lay pavers upon.
Laying the pavers
To gain some early knowledge relating to the next section click on link provided. pavers and paving patterns
Laying the pavers
- Place pavers to all corners of the area measuring 5mm away from the foundation and run a firm stringline across the front edge of the pavers.
- Check the gap along the stringline to the foundation. If any pavers wont fit due to irregularities in the foundation the stringline will have to be moved forward.
- Ensure that all stringlines are running straight and square, especially outer corners, the smallest error here will quickly grow into a much larger problem.
- Pick a starting point where any cuts will be less visible or the numbers can be minimised. Lay the first row of pavers along the foundation using the stringline as a guide * this should be the header course, and the pattern is laid within the header course.
- Ensure the pavers are being laid straight and square by regularly checking the lines, additional stringlines or laser levels can greatly assist with this. Any minor curves in the paving can be straightened by tapping a straight length of wood to the outer row.
Measuring and cutting the pavers
It's inevitable that some of the pavers will need to be cut to a certain shape or size, it's just a question of how many. Larger and more complex areas can attract a high number of cuts which can take some time to complete. If this is the case we would suggest hiring a brick saw and cutting all the pavers in one hit after the paving has been laid.
Cutting in the Header Course
Where the paving ends at a structure its highly unlikely it will fall on a full paver. As full pavers are needed to lay the header course it will be necessary to cut the outer row of the pattern.
- Pave up to the structure and place random pavers along the edge indicating where the header course will be.
- Place a screed bar or strap by the pavers and mark out the line with a waterproof marker.
- Number the paver to be cut as well as the adjoining paver to prevent any confusion
- Don't throw away the cut by mistake.....
The finishing touches
With the cuts in place and the last of the pavers laid, the final step is to properly bed the pavers and lock them in place.
- Any open edges of paving needs to be restrained. Place a spade to the pavers edge, push down into the base and pull back the materials. Apply concrete along the edge and use a trowel to slop the edge.
- Check the lines of the pavers one last time, pavers can be straightened with the use of a chisel and mallet.
- Fill the gaps between the pavers by spreading fine dried sand over the top, once filled spread a thin even layer over pavers.
- A plate compactor is now used to compact and bed the pavers firmly in place. Affix a scrap piece of carpet under the plate to prevent any scratching or cracking to the pavers as the compactor moves over the surface. Make two or three passes over the pavers re-spreading the sand over the pavers in between each pass.
- Give the area a light spray with water to help settle the sand and freshen the pavers.
- IMPORTANT If you have chosen to use polymeric sand be sure ALL EXCESS SAND IS REMOVED from the surface of the pavers before applying a light spray of water.